If you learn one knot, learn this one. The Palomar is fast, works on every line type, and retains more of your line’s strength than any other common terminal knot. On braid in particular it is the difference between a hook that holds and a hook that slips.
It suits anything with an eye: hooks, swivels, snaps, jig heads, lure eyes. The doubled line through the eye is what makes it so reliable — there is no single strand to slip.
Fold the line back on itself so you have a loop roughly six inches long, with the tag end and the standing line side by side.
Push the folded end through the hook eye, then bring it back around. The loop should be big enough to work with — do not pull it tight yet.
With the loop, tie a simple overhand knot. Leave it loose — this is the step where impatience costs you the knot.
Take the loop and pass it completely over the hook, the lure, or the swivel. This is the move that makes the Palomar what it is.
Lubricate with water or saliva, hold the standing line and the tag end, and pull steadily until the knot seats against the eye. Trim the tag.
| Line | Palomar | Improved clinch | Difference on 20 lb |
|---|---|---|---|
| Braid | 95% | 75% | +4.0 lb |
| Monofilament | 95% | 87% | +1.6 lb |
| Fluorocarbon | 93% | 83% | +2.0 lb |
Those differences are worth more than most upgrades anglers pay for. Run your own line and knot through the Knot Strength Calculator to see the actual figure, and set the drag from that number rather than from the spool label.
Not every knot suits every job. Line-to-line joins need a leader knot instead — see the leader size chart for which to use with which diameters.
A Palomar needs a hook with a decent eye and a sharp pair of clippers. Nothing else.
The classic case for the Palomar. Braid punishes friction knots and rewards this one.
Check current price on Amazon →Big eyes, which makes the loop step easy. The hook style most anglers tie a Palomar to.
Check current price on Amazon →Trimmed tags and clean cuts. Scissors crush braid; clippers do not.
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The Palomar keeps a high percentage of line strength, which is why it survives heavy use. The knot strength calculator puts a number on it, the knot strength chart compares it against every other knot, and the drag and leader calculator sets the drag it supports.
It is the strongest common knot for tying line directly to a hook, swivel or lure — typically retaining 95% or more of line rating on braid and monofilament alike. The FG knot beats it for joining braid to a fluorocarbon leader, but for terminal tackle the Palomar is the one to learn first.
Almost always because the loop was not kept open as the hook passed through, so the two strands crossed and one cut into the other. The other cause is pulling the knot tight before it is properly seated, which friction-burns the line. Wet the knot and pull steadily, not sharply.
Yes, and it is one of the few knots that works well with a big lure — the doubled line passes through the eye easily and the knot sits compactly against the eye. The hook points are the only nuisance. Tie it before you handle the fish, not while a treble is swinging.
For braid, leave about a quarter inch; for monofilament, an eighth of an inch is plenty. Braid is slippery and creeps under load, so a slightly longer tag is cheap insurance against a knot working loose after twenty casts.
No. It ties line to an object — a hook, swivel, snap or lure eye. For line-to-line joins you need a double uni, an FG knot, a blood knot or a surgeon’s knot, depending on the diameters involved.
Yes, and it is one of the better choices, though braid is slippery enough that you should add extra turns or finish with a couple of half hitches. Wet the line before you pull it tight and seat the knot slowly, because jerking braid down hard generates heat and can weaken it. For joining braid to a leader, an FG knot or a double uni still performs better.
Typically 90 to 95 percent of line strength when tied correctly in monofilament or fluorocarbon, and slightly less on braid if the knot is not seated fully. That retention is why it is the standard recommendation for terminal tackle, where the knot is the last link before the hook or lure.
Knot Strength Calculator · Drag & Leader Calculator · Hook Size Selector · Fishing line strength chart · Braid vs mono vs fluorocarbon
How to Tie an Improved Clinch Knot · How to Tie a Uni Knot · How to Tie an FG Knot · How to Tie a Blood Knot · How to Tie a Double Uni Knot · How to Tie a Surgeon's Knot · How to Tie a Snell Knot · How to Tie a Non-Slip Loop Knot · How to Spool a Spinning Reel · Spooling Without Line Twist · How to Set Drag on a Reel
Numbers to go with it: Knot Strength Calculator · Line Diameter Converter · Shock Leader Calculator
Accuracy note: results are calculated from general reference values rather than a physical test of your equipment. Follow the guidance that ships with your gear whenever the two disagree. TackleCalc is independent and is not endorsed by any manufacturer.